Town · Matabeleland North, Zimbabwe
Victoria Falls
Zimbabwe's adventure town on the south bank of the Zambezi, a short walk from the Rainforest gate and the 1905 bridge to Zambia, and a city since December 2020.
Short answer
Victoria Falls is in Matabeleland North, Zimbabwe. This page lists 41 places to stay, 19 places to eat and drink and 9 sights. The nearest park with an entry fee on this site is Victoria Falls National Park, about 2 km away, where international adults pay from US$58.

- Malaria
- UK travel health advice rates Zimbabwe below 1,200 m as high risk from November to June and low risk from July to October, and puts the Zambezi valley at risk all year.
- Places to stay
- 41
- Eat and drink
- 19
- Sights
- 9
In and around Victoria Falls
69 places listedWhere to stay in Victoria Falls 41
- 17.92°S 25.82°EHotelNkosi Guest LodgeAcacia Crescent, Victoria Falls+263 83 284 7321thebayetecollection.com
- 17.93°S 25.83°EHostelMambo Backpackers VillageCourtney Selous Crescent+263 77 413 0091
- 17.93°S 25.82°EHotelPheZulu Guest LodgeMopane Road, Vicoria Falls+263 83 284 7321thebayetecollection.com
- 17.93°S 25.83°EHotelBatonka Guest LodgeReynard Road+263 83 284 7189batonkaguestlodge.com
- 17.93°S 25.82°EHotelBayete Guest LodgeManyika Road, Victoria Falls+263 83 284 7321thebayetecollection.com
- 17.92°S 25.83°EHotelDrift InnWood Road, Victoria Falls+263 83 284 0112driftinnvicfalls.com
- 17.90°S 25.82°EHotelInsika LodgeParkway Drive, Victoria Falls Municipality+263 8677 009851insikalodge.com
- 17.93°S 25.82°EHotelMopani LodgeMopani Road, Victoria Falls+263 83 284 6023mopani.travel
- 17.92°S 25.83°EHotelThe Victorian ManorWood Road, Victoria Falls+263 83 284 7321thebayetecollection.com
Show all 41 places to stay
- Zimbara · Guest house · Mahogany Road, Victoria Falls+263 83 284 7321thebayetecollection.com
- Victoria Falls Hotel · Hotel
- Mbano Manor Hotel · Hotel · Old Kazungula Road, Victoria Falls+263 83 284 5096mbanomanorhotel.com
- Murugare Lodge · Hotel · 707 Aerodrome, Victoria Falls+263 77 777 5065
- Georges Lodge · Hotel · Kildare Roads, Victoria Falls
- Pioneers Lodge · Hotel · Mahogany Rd, Victoria Falls, Simbabwe+263 83 284 0343pioneersvicfalls.com
- Victoria Falls Backpackers · Hostel · Gibson Road+263 71 357 5413victoriafallsbackpackers.com
- Amadeus Garden Lodge · Hotel · Reynard Road, Vicoria Falls+263 83 284 2261
- Gertie's Lodge · Guest house · Nguhvuma Crescent
- Ilala Lodge · Hotel+263 78 809 7346ilalalodge.com
- Pennywise Cottages · Hostel · Kings Way
- Shearwater Explorers Village · Hotel · Adam Stander Road
- Furusa Lodge Guest House · Guest house · Gibson Road, Victoria Falls
- Hippo House · Guest house
- 528 Reynard Road · Hotel
- casa de Lola victoria fall · Guest house
- Chundu Island Lodge · Hotel
- Cresta Sprayview Hotel · Hotel
- Elephant Hills Hotel · Hotel
- Elephant Hills Intercontinental · Hotel
- Flatdog Lodge Hotel · Hotel
- Kingdom Hotel · Hotel
- Lokuthula Lodge · Guest house
- lola's House · Chalet
- N1 Hotel & Campside · Campsite
- Premier Lodge · Hotel
- Rainbow Hotel · Hotel
- Rest stay · Campsite
- Sindabezi Island · Hotel
- Travellers Rest Camp · Campsite
- Victoria Falls Safari Club · Hotel
- Victoria Falls Safari Lodge · Hotel
Sights 9
- Steam LocoMuseum · Livingstone Way
- Adventure zoneAttraction
- ChikopokopoAttraction
- Chipala Cultural ExperienceAttraction
- The Snake PitZoo
- Victoria Falls distances plaque.Monument
- Victoria Falls Snake ParkZoo
- Zambezi Horse TrailsAttraction
- Zambezi Nature SanctuaryZoo
Restaurants and cafes 15
- 301 On Parkway Café & BistroRestaurant · italian, mediterranean, steak house, sushi · Fox Crescent+263 77 559 6100
- Lola's Tapas and Carnivore RestaurantRestaurant · african, spanish · Livingston Way+263 213 284 2994
- BasaltRestaurant · regional · West Road, Victoria Falls
- MaKuwa-Kuwa RestaurantRestaurant · Squire Cummings Road, Vicoria Falls+263 213 284 3201
- Brooks Cafe & RestaurantCafe · international
- GOAT at Mama AfricaRestaurant · regional
- Three MonkeysRestaurant · burger, african
- ChipalaRestaurant
- Comfort CateringRestaurant
- Cyber CaféCafe
- Indabelly restaurantRestaurant
- MarulaRestaurant
Show all 15 restaurants and cafes
- Stanley’s Terrasse · Restaurant
- Tasty Bites · Restaurant
- The Boma Restaurant · Restaurant
Bars and pubs 4
- The River Brewing CompanyBar · Adam Stander Road, Victoria Falls+263 8677 174675facebook.com
- In Da BellyBar
- Invuvu BarBar
- Sports Bar and ButcheryBar
Victoria Falls is the town built for the waterfall, and it still feels that way. It began in 1901, and the railway arrived just before the bridge to Zambia opened in April 1905. The 2022 census counted 35,215 people, and it was made a city in December 2020, though it walks like a small town. Most hotels sit within about 3 km of the falls, so plenty of people never need a car.
Getting there
The airport is 18 km south of town. Johannesburg is the main link (Airlink and FlySafair among others), with Kenya Airways from Nairobi, Ethiopian from Addis Ababa and Discover Airlines flying seasonally from Frankfurt.
By road it is the end of the A8, 440 km from Bulawayo and 109 km from Hwange. Read our self-drive guide first. Kasane in Botswana is about 70 km away through the Kazungula border, the easier way in. Coming through Livingstone means doing the temporary import permit for the car at the Zambian post and then again at the Zimbabwean one.
The weekly train from Bulawayo leaves on Friday at 19:00 and is due at 10:00 on Saturday, at the station on Mallet Drive beside the Victoria Falls Hotel. Expect it one to four hours late, buy tickets at the station and bring your own food.
When to go
The river, not the weather, decides this, and our best time to visit guide goes month by month. Rain (657 mm a year) falls mostly from November to March and June to August is almost dry. October averages 33.4°C in the afternoon, July nights drop to about 5.6°C. Malaria risk is high from November to June, and the tourism authority names Victoria Falls in that band.
What to do
The Rainforest gate of Victoria Falls National Park is next to the Zimbabwe border post, a walk from the centre. Around 70% of the best views are on this side. The falls are 1,708 m wide and 108 m high, and Livingstone first saw them in 1855. The bungee jump is 111 m.
The Big Tree, a baobab thought to be about 2,000 years old, is worth the trip (take a taxi, the bush around it has wild animals). The Jafuta Heritage Centre covers the Shona, Ndebele, Tonga and Lozi. The Buffalo Bar at Victoria Falls Safari Lodge looks over a waterhole that elephant and buffalo use, and the steam train dinner crosses the bridge at dusk. The town is ringed by parks, and Zambezi National Park is one of them.
Good to know
Travellers trust the tourist police in yellow vests. Touts are pushy; walk on. The curio market is behind the post office. Don’t walk the riverside path from the falls to the Victoria Falls Hotel after dark, when the UK government says mugging and bag snatching in city centres are most common. Power cuts are frequent and can be long. Visas for crossing to Zambia, including the KAZA UniVisa, are in our entry requirements guide, and cash is covered in travel essentials.
History and culture
Victoria Falls is a railway town that grew up on the edge of a gorge. There was no town here until 1901, the hotel came with the line in 1904 and the bridge in 1905, and nearly everything since has followed the tourists: the bridge closed again and again during the Rhodesian war, the boom of the 1980s and early 1990s, the years when visitors stayed in Zambia instead, and city status in 2020. The Nambya and Tonga were here long before any of it, and the Tonga had their own name for the falls.
- Stone Age to first millennium AD
Early Stone Age hand axes and older Oldowan tools have been dug up around the falls, and so have Middle Stone Age tools. Iron Age farmers followed: pottery turned up near Masuma Dam in the early 1960s, and a settlement from the late first millennium AD shows they smelted iron here. The Tonga name for the falls is Shungu Namutitima, boiling water; Mosi-oa-Tunya, the smoke that thunders, is the Lozi one. source
- 1855 to 1875
David Livingstone was paddled across to the island at the edge of the falls on 16 November 1855 and named them after Queen Victoria. He came back in 1860 with the botanist John Kirk to study them properly, and the Czech doctor Emil Holub drew the first detailed plan in 1875. Livingstone also recorded older local names, Seongo and Chongwe, which he understood as the place of the rainbow. source
- 1901 to 1905
The town on the Zimbabwe side began in 1901, when the falls were looked at as a source of hydro-electric power. The Victoria Falls Hotel opened in 1904 for passengers on the newly built railway. Until the bridge across the Second Gorge was opened by Sir George Darwin on 12 September 1905, people crossed the river upstream at the Old Drift by dugout canoe or on a barge hauled by cable. source
- 1967
Rhodesia's unilateral declaration of independence (UDI) in 1965 turned the river into a front line, and the bridge was closed again and again over the next fifteen years. On 1 August 1967 a joint force of 79 ZIPRA guerrillas and South Africans of Umkhonto we Sizwe crossed the Zambezi about 20 km east of the falls. They fought Rhodesian troops through the Hwange (Wankie) bush for five weeks; 29 were killed, most of the rest were captured in Rhodesia or Botswana, and only one made it back to Zambia. source
- 1975 to 1980
On 26 August 1975 Ian Smith's government and the nationalist leaders, Abel Muzorewa, Joshua Nkomo, Ndabaningi Sithole and James Chikerema, met in a South African Railways carriage parked halfway across the bridge, so that neither side had to leave its own territory. John Vorster and Kenneth Kaunda brokered it. The talks lasted about nine and a half hours and ended with nothing agreed. Freight and road traffic across the bridge only resumed in 1980, the year of independence. source
- 1980s to late 1990s
Peace brought the town its second boom, in the 1980s and early 1990s, after the first of the 1930s to 1960s. By the end of the 1990s almost 400,000 people a year were visiting the falls, and unlike the game parks more of them were Zimbabweans and Zambians than overseas tourists. source
- 2006 to 2011
By 2006 hotels on the Zimbabwe side were around 30 percent full, and The Herald later wrote that in the hyperinflation years Victoria Falls had become a ghost town, with tourists choosing the resorts on the Zambian bank. Once Zimbabwe took up the US dollar the town became cheaper than Livingstone, and by 2011 Livingstone's tourism association was complaining that visitors came to Zambia for the activities and went to Zimbabwe to sleep. source
- 2013 to 2020
In April 2013 China's Exim Bank lent US$150 million for a new runway and terminal at the airport 18 km south of town, and from 24 to 29 August that year Victoria Falls and Livingstone shared the 20th General Assembly of the UN World Tourism Organization. On 9 December 2020 Victoria Falls was made a city, and President Emmerson Mnangagwa was given the freedom of it the same day. source
- The Nambya and Tonga
- Local operators name the Nambya and the Tonga as the original people of this corner of the Zambezi. The Nambya, about 100,000 people today, trace their origin to Great Zimbabwe; a subchief called Sawanga led them to Dete, and Hwange town and park are named after him. Their chiefs in Zimbabwe include Shana and Hwange. They are related to the Kalanga, and contact with Kalanga groups shaped their language. source
- Chinotimba
- About 60,000 people, most of the town, live in the township of Chinotimba. The name describes the roar of the falls in Nambya. Wild Horizons runs a two-hour walk through it that takes in some of the oldest houses, the market, taverns, churches and, in term time, Chinotimba Primary School. source
- Food and drumming
- The Boma at Victoria Falls Safari Lodge is a dinner that leans hard into theatre: a chitenge wrap at the door, face paint, a hand-washing ceremony and a local brew, then game on the braai, sadza, Zambezi bream with kapenta, mbira players, a storyteller and a djembe for every guest for the drum session. Anyone who eats a sautéed mopane worm gets a certificate to prove it. source
For American visitors: The American Society of Civil Engineers lists the Victoria Falls Bridge among its International Historic Civil Engineering Landmarks, quoting its own International Section that the bridge shows how an engineer can add to the beauty of a place instead of spoiling it. source
For German visitors: Discover Airlines flies a seasonal direct service from Frankfurt to Victoria Falls Airport. source
Main sights in Victoria Falls
6- Victoria Falls Rainforest
The Zimbabwe side of the falls, run by ZimParks as Victoria Falls National Park. It is only 23.4 square kilometres, but it holds the Zimbabwe bank of a curtain of water 1,708 m wide and 108 m high, and the spray keeps alive a strip of real rainforest, ferns, palms, lianas and mahogany not seen elsewhere in the region. It was listed as a Ramsar wetland in 2013 on top of the World Heritage listing of 1989.
ZimParks, Victoria Falls National Park (with Wikipedia, Victoria Falls National Park) - Livingstone statue
A statue by Sir William Reid Dick on the western bank, facing the Devil's Cataract. The inscription says Livingstone visited the falls in 1855 and named them after Queen Victoria. Work on it began in 1934 and it was unveiled in 1954. War veterans wanted it taken down in 2001 and Zambia asked for it to be moved across the river in 2004; it is still there.
Wikipedia, Statue of David Livingstone, Victoria Falls - Victoria Falls Bridge
The 1905 arch 128 m above the river carries the railway, the road, pedestrians and a 111 m bungee jump, with a border post at each end. The historic bridge tour is the better way to see it: a talk on the bridge and its builders, the visitor centre and a walk on the catwalks under the deck that were used to build it.
The Herald, Victoria Falls bridge turns 106 (20 September 2011), with Wikipedia, Victoria Falls Bridge - Victoria Falls Hotel
Opened in 1904 for the railway's passengers and still owned by National Railways of Zimbabwe. King George VI and his family stayed in April 1947, BOAC used it as a stop on its flying boat route from Southampton, and it hosted the conferences that set up the Central African Federation in 1949 and wound it up in 1963. The terrace looks straight down the Second Gorge to the bridge.
Wikipedia, Victoria Falls Hotel - The Big Tree
A baobab about 2 km from the Zambezi, 22.4 m round and 24 m high, that may be three trunks grown together. Name carvers have left their mark on it, and it is now fenced and protected by National Museums and Monuments of Zimbabwe, not ZimParks.
Wikipedia, Big Tree at Victoria Falls - Victoria Falls station and the steam train
The station opposite the hotel is where the Bushtracks Express starts: a 1952 Class 14A steam locomotive, No. 512, pulling carriages restored by Rovos Rail out onto the bridge and on to the Jafuta siding. Rhodes wanted the bridge placed so that train passengers would feel the spray, and this trip stops out on it.
Victoria Falls Guide, steam train trips
Did you know?
- The town counted 35,199 people in the 2022 census, and in 2018 its employment growth of 10.3 percent was the highest of anywhere in Zimbabwe. source
- The spray usually climbs more than 400 m above the gorge, sometimes twice that, and can be seen from up to 50 km away. On full moon nights it throws a moonbow. source
- The falls are still moving. They have cut back through the basalt to make the zigzag of gorges below the bridge, and the lowest point of the lip, a dip at the Devil's Cataract on the Zimbabwe side, may already be where the next gorge is starting. source
- The bridge was built out from both sides of the gorge as anchored cantilevers, with the steel carried across on a cableway, and took about 14 months. In 1929 the deck was widened by roughly 4 m and raised almost 1.5 m to fit road lanes and footpaths beside the railway. source
- The bridge cost £72,000 in 1905, which The Herald describes as the highest figure of its time for such a structure. source
Checked 19 October 2026.
Wildlife you might see
13- very likelyChacma baboonIn the rainforest and in town, where troops go through the rubbish bins by day. All yearsource
- very likelyWarthogIn the rainforest and on the banks of the river walk upstream of the falls. All yearsource
- very likelyMonkeysThe rainforest paths and the café at the park entrance, where they will take food off your table if you look away. All yearsource
- likelyBushbuckIn the shade of the rainforest between the viewpoints. All yearsource
- likelyElephantOn the edges of town and right through it at night, coming out of the bush near Inyathi Safaris, along the road past the Rainbow Hotel and into Low Density and Rainbow Flats, where residents go indoors by 7pm. All year. In town mostly after darksource
- likelyHippoThe Zambezi above the falls, where pods are usually in the water along the river walk upstream of the park. All yearsource
- likelyNile crocodileThe river above the falls, which holds a large population. All yearsource
- likelyVultures (white-backed, hooded, lappet-faced and white-headed) and marabou storksAt the daily feeding in front of Victoria Falls Safari Lodge, watched from a hide with a guide. Hyenas sometimes come in for the bones. All yearsource
- likelyAfrican fish eagle and waterbirdsAlong the river above the falls and its islands, with herons and plenty of other waterfowl. All yearsource
- possibleCape buffaloAt the waterhole at Buffalo Bar, where they come to drink at sunset with elephants. At sunsetsource
- rareTaita falcon and Verreaux's eagleThe gorges below the falls, where both nest. You need binoculars and patiencesource
- rareKlipspringerOn the rock faces of the gorges, glimpsed now and thensource
- rareLeopardThe rainforest and the bush around it. ZimParks says you may see one on the very odd occasionsource
Likelihood is for a normal visit of two or three days, from the sources linked. Nothing is guaranteed in the wild.
Hikes and walks
3- Rainforest walk along the 16 viewpoints
The path runs along the lip from the Livingstone statue and Devil's Cataract to Danger Point, with the Zambian bank straight across the gorge. VoiceMap's self-guided route starts outside Ilala Lodge and covers 3 km in about two hours including the walk to the gate. Most lookouts have only a pile of branches between you and the drop, so stay behind them: the rock beyond is wet and slopes towards the edge. Wear shoes with grip.
Permit: Victoria Falls National Park entry ticket (not included in the VoiceMap tour)
VoiceMap, Zimbabwe's Victoria Falls: a self-guided rainforest walk (3 km, about 120 minutes, starts outside Ilala Lodge, Livingstone statue above Devil's Cataract, park entry not included, do not feed the animals). Also Victoria Falls Guide, tour of Victoria Falls (16 viewpoints, Danger Point at the far end, piled branches at most lookouts, wet rock sloping towards the edge) - Zambezi River Walk to the Big Tree
Starts at the corner of Zambezi Drive just outside the park fence above Devil's Cataract and follows the bank upstream for a little over a kilometre to the Big Tree, a baobab about 16 m round. It is unguided, but hippo, elephant and buffalo use this bank and the river is full of crocodiles, so I would take a guide (operators in town will send one), keep well back from the water and never walk it near dusk. Zambezi Drive is a few dozen metres away if you want to get off the path.
Permit: None, it is outside the park fence
Siyabona Africa, Zambezi River Walk (just over 1 km from the park fence at the corner of Zambezi Drive near Devil's Cataract to the Big Tree, 16 m round, unguided but most operators provide a guide, hippos, elephants and buffalo on land, crocodiles in the river, Zambezi Drive a few dozen metres away) - Batoka Gorge guided hike
Two routes depending on the group: an easy 4 km along the top of the gorge, or 5 km down in the gorge with about 100 m of climbing. Expect views down the canyon to the river, with a chance of baboons, dassies, chameleons and birds. You need reasonable fitness for the gorge route.
Permit: Guided only, booked through the operator with pick-up in town
Manawa, Batoka Gorge guided hike from Victoria Falls (run by Try Rafting: 4 km easy route on top or 5 km moderate route in the gorge with about 100 m of ascent, about 3 hours walking, local guide)
Staying safe in Victoria Falls
- Malaria
- UK travel health advice rates Zimbabwe below 1,200 m as high risk from November to June and low risk from July to October, and puts the Zambezi valley at risk all year. For the high-risk months it names atovaquone with proguanil, doxycycline or mefloquine (doxycycline not for children under 12). In the low months bite avoidance is the advice: long sleeves after sunset, repellent, a net. If Mana Pools or Kariba are on the same trip, plan for the all-year Zambezi valley risk there. source
- Walking after dark
- Elephants walk through the town at night, past the Rainbow Hotel and into the suburbs, and residents walking home in the dark have been killed: two in one week in May 2022, in Mkhosana and in Mfelandawonye. Wikivoyage also says the riverside path to the Victoria Falls Hotel is not safe after dark. Take a taxi or your hotel transfer once the sun is down, even for a short dinner trip. source
- The edge of the falls
- There are no railings along most of the rainforest path, only branches piled at the lookouts. ZimParks' own advice is to keep away from the cliff edge and watch for slippery rock. Stay on the path, and do not climb past the barrier for a photo at Danger Point. source
- Hippos and crocodiles on the river
- The upper Zambezi has big populations of both, and canoe trips near the town have been hit: on 30 April 2018 a crocodile came out of the water, bit into the side of a canoe and took a woman's arm before her fiancé and the guides got her out. Go with a licensed operator, do exactly what the guide says, and do not swim or wade anywhere in the Zambezi. source
- Money changers and petty theft
- Changing money anywhere but a licensed bank or bureau is illegal in Zimbabwe, so ignore the street changers. The UK Foreign Office also warns that mugging and bag snatching are common in city centres after dark, and tells you to refuse torn notes in change because shops may refuse them from you. source
- Driving out of town
- If you drive on to Hwange or Bulawayo, the UK advice is not to drive outside the main towns at night, when stray livestock and trucks without lights are on the road. Stop at every roadblock and toll gate, ask for a receipt for any fine, and carry spare fuel and US dollar cash, because fuel is sometimes unavailable and cards are sometimes declined. source
Tips from travellers
- From about December to May you will be soaked on the rainforest path, from below as much as from above. Bring a proper rain jacket and a dry bag for your phone, or hire a raincoat from the sellers in the car park. several sources
- Carry US dollars in small notes. Most places in Victoria Falls take cards, a few still do not, foreign cards are rarely taken outside the town, and the ATMs are not something to depend on. Singles are scarce, though shops and restaurants will break a hundred from the ATM. Prepay big activities when you book and keep cash for tips and curios. several sources
- The street vendors and touts in town are persistent. A firm no and walking on works; they are a nuisance, not a threat. The Tourism Police in yellow bibs patrol the centre and will walk with you if someone will not leave you alone. several sources
- Book Devil's Pool and anything else with limited places before you fly, because they can be full months ahead. Devil's Pool also closes at peak flow, roughly March to June, so do not plan a trip around it in those months. one source
- You can walk onto the Victoria Falls Bridge from the Zimbabwe side without using up your visa. Ask for a bridge pass and do not go through Zambian immigration on the far side, or you have left Zimbabwe and will need a new visa to come back. one source
- Give the town four nights if you can, before any safari days. International flights are often late and connections into Victoria Falls get missed, and two or three nights leaves no slack for that. one source
Checked 19 October 2026. Conditions change, so confirm with the park or venue before you go.
A rocket on the golf course and other Victoria Falls stories
Frank Oates came down to the Zambezi in the worst possible month. He was a naturalist from near Leeds, and on the last evening of 1874 his party was sheltering from a heavy shower just above the river when they caught their first sight of the falls through the trees. The river was in full flood, and very few Europeans had seen it like that. He wrote only one journal entry while he was there, on 1 January 1875, and called it a day never to be forgotten. The spray columns and the double and triple rainbows in the book were put together afterwards by his brother, drawing on what Livingstone, Baines and Chapman had written.
It was the rainy season, and the air by the river was heavy. By late January Oates had a headache. On 5 February, a little before sunset, he died of fever near a Makalaka village on the road back to Tati, and his pointer, Rail, was found lying on the grave. The dog went home to England. The journals came out in 1881 as Matabele Land and the Victoria Falls, and they are on the Internet Archive if you want them. One small odd thing: he was the uncle of the Antarctic explorer Lawrence Oates.
Dinner on the fourth of September, 1904
Thirty years later the trip took five and a half days. W. L. Sclater, who ran the South African Museum in Cape Town, had just finished the last volume of his book on South African birds and decided he had earned a holiday. He left Cape Town on 31 August 1904 with his wife and the museum’s taxidermist, spent a day in Bulawayo, and on 4 September arrived in time for dinner at the Victoria Falls Hotel, which he also called the temporary hotel at the railway terminus, about half a mile from the falls. That was the first Victoria Falls Hotel, and it had royalty that same month, when Princess Christian and her daughter came to stay.
Sclater’s notes read like a bird list from yesterday. Egyptian geese standing on a rock just above the drop, cormorants and darters holding still on the boulders, a giant kingfisher hovering before it dived, scarlet-chested sunbirds at the flowers and the falling call of the emerald-spotted dove. He was a little disappointed, though, and wrote that there were fewer birds than he had expected, on the river and in the bush. On 8 September he moved up the river to Livingstone on the north bank, where there were more birds and where most of the collecting was done.
Shots across the gorge
For most of the 1970s the gorge was a border between enemies, and visitors on the Rhodesian bank were in range of the other side. On 15 May 1973 Zambian soldiers opened fire on three North American tourists at the falls. Christine Sinclair, from Guelph in Ontario, was killed on the spot. Marion Drijber, from Rockwood, was hit and fell into the river and was swept away. An American with them was badly hurt.
The strangest casualty of the war was a golf course. Elephant Hills, on a small hill about 4 km out of town, had a Gary Player layout built to be the hardest in Africa, and from 1976 it held the Victoria Falls Classic. At 7,868 yards it was said to be the longest course on the continent. John Bland won the 1977 event, and days later, on 2 November, a rocket fired from Zambia at a plane full of sightseers over the falls missed and set the Elephant Hills Country Club alight. Fire destroyed it. The tournament carried on for two more years regardless.
The hotel that stands there now went up in 1989, and the course was eased off for ordinary golfers. Some of the old character survived in the local rules, which let you lift your ball out of dung and out of hoof prints. Impala, warthog, kudu and waterbuck graze around the course, and the advice about balls in the water hazards is to leave them, because crocodiles sometimes live there.
Chilli in a ping pong ball
The elephants that wander into town are not just a story for visitors. They raid crops in the villages around Victoria Falls in the rains, and the Victoria Falls Wildlife Trust, set up in 2008, has spent years trying to make that less attractive without shooting anybody. Since April 2010 it has been trying out a potato gun that fires ping pong balls filled with chilli oil and powder. The ball bursts on the elephant’s hide, and the smell, the noise and the thump do the rest. The chilli washes off in the next mud wallow. The quieter versions are rags soaked in chilli and grease hung along field edges, and chilli planted as a border.
In July 2017 the trust and Connected Conservation began fitting GPS collars to bulls, ten adult bulls, to find the corridors they use through the communal land and the spots where trouble keeps happening. The trust’s own description of the problem is blunt: these elephants are losing their fear of people.
The same team, with Dr Chris Foggin as vet, gets called out to snared animals all over the district, from giraffe to hyena. Snares set for the pot catch antelope and warthog. The commercial poachers use heavy multi-strand wire meant for buffalo and elephant, because that meat is sold. Vultures get the worst of it when poachers lace a carcass with poison, since one poisoned elephant can kill hundreds of birds. The vultures fed every lunchtime at Victoria Falls Safari Lodge are part of the same story. Since 2014 the trust and ZimParks have surveyed nesting sites in the breeding season, and schoolchildren around town take home a booklet with a hotline number for a sick bird. The trust also runs a project to secure Zambezi National Park.
Quick answers
What animals can you see in Victoria Falls?
Most visitors see chacma baboon, warthog and monkeys. You have a good chance of seeing bushbuck, elephant, hippo, nile crocodile, vultures (white-backed, hooded, lappet-faced and white-headed) and marabou storks and african fish eagle. Taita falcon, verreaux's eagle, klipspringer and leopard are there but rarely seen.
What are the best hikes in Victoria Falls?
Rainforest walk along the 16 viewpoints (3 km), Zambezi River Walk to the Big Tree (1 km) and Batoka Gorge guided hike (5 km). See the hikes section for times, difficulty and permits.
Guides for Victoria Falls
- Driving in South Africa, Namibia and Botswana: UK Licence
- Flights from the UK to South Africa, Namibia and Botswana
- Safari in the UK School Holidays: Which Break, Which Park
- Best Time to Visit Victoria Falls: Water, Devil's Pool and Rafting
- Zimbabwe Entry Requirements 2026: Visas, Fees and the Border
- Hwange Gate Times, Fees and Where Self-Drivers May Go
- Self-Drive Zimbabwe: Potholes, Tolls, Roadblocks and Park Rules
- Zimbabwe Travel Essentials: Dollars, Roadblocks, Malaria
Map of Victoria Falls
See every place on this map as a list