Ndumu Game Reserve

Ndumo (often spelt Ndumu) is a birders’ reserve first and a game reserve second. It covers about 10,000 hectares of floodplain, fig forest and sand forest where the Pongola River joins the Usutu, right on the Mozambique line in the Maputaland corner of KwaZulu-Natal. Proclaimed in 1924, it is one of the country’s oldest reserves and a Ramsar wetland since 1997. More than 430 bird species are recorded, the most for any protected area in South Africa. There are no big cats, which is partly why you can walk here.

Getting there

Ndumo is a long way from anywhere: over 400 km from Durban and just over 100 km from Mkuze. From the N2 north of Mkuze, turn towards Jozini after about 10 km, drive through Jozini and follow the signs to Ndumo. Sources put the Jozini to camp distance at 70 to 80 km, and everyone agrees the last 14 km are rough. Gates are open 05:00 to 19:00 in summer (October to March) and 06:00 to 18:00 in winter; reception keeps office hours of 08:00 to 12:00 and 13:00 to 16:00, and overnight guests are asked to check in by 15:30. A trading store with basic food and petrol sits about 2 km from the entrance, but do not count on it for much.

When to go

Come in the hot months, November to March, if birds are the reason. That is when the pans are full and the summer migrants, crakes, pygmy geese and painted-snipe are in. People who have camped there in April say the bush goes quiet quickly once the migrants leave. The dry winter months, May to September, are more comfortable and better for seeing nyala, giraffe and the general game around what water is left. Whatever the season, this is a high-risk malaria area: take prophylaxis. Bilharzia is present in the water, so do not swim.

What to do

Nyamithi Pan is the centrepiece, a wide pan with two hides where you can expect pelicans, both flamingos, saddle-billed and yellow-billed storks, open-bills and herons, with crocodiles and hippo in attendance. Shokwe Pan and the fig forests along the Pongola are where guides find Pel’s fishing owl, Narina trogon and African broadbill, and the way to see them is on an Ezemvelo guided walk along the river banks, booked at reception. Night drives are offered too. Self-drive is allowed on the designated roads at 40 km/h; the Red Cliffs viewpoint looks over the Usutu into Mozambique. Mammals include nyala, hippo, giraffe, buffalo, red duiker, suni and both rhino species.

Good to know

Accommodation is modest: a hutted camp of two-bed and four-bed units and a shaded 14-stand campsite with power points and braai stands. The curio shop sells cold drinks and beer. No pets, and firearms must be declared at the gate. The small store near the entrance has petrol, but it is a long way to anything bigger, so arrive full. Tembe Elephant Park is next door and the two pair well, though Tembe lets in 4x4 vehicles only.

Last updated 6 October 2026. Sources: Wikipedia, BirdLife South Africa (Go Birding), KZN Parks (independent guide), SA-Venues, Ken Borland (birding blog), Wikipedia (Ramsar sites list).