Paternoster

Paternoster is a fishing village of whitewashed cottages on the West Coast, about 145 km north of Cape Town and 15 km from Vredenburg, between Saldanha Bay and St Helena Bay. It is one of the oldest fishing settlements on this coast and the historic centre of the West Coast rock lobster trade; a commercial export industry was running by 1902 and painted wooden boats still work off the beach. People come to do very little: walk the sand, eat seafood, watch the sunset and drive out to the lighthouse.

Getting there

Count on about two hours by car. Take the R27 north for roughly 120 km, then turn west and go through Vredenburg to the coast; sources name the turn-off differently (R45 or R399), so follow the signs for Vredenburg. There is no useful public transport. A daily bus runs from Cape Town to Vredenburg and some guesthouses will collect you there, but without a car you will see nothing else on the coast. The village has one entrance at a four-way stop.

When to go

Spring is the sweet spot. Wild flowers cover the surrounding veld from around August into September, and whales pass offshore from about August; sources disagree on how long they stay, with some saying September and others into December. Summer is warm but windy, with strong winds most afternoons, which is why kayak trips go out early. Winter brings big swells that surfers like. January and summer weekends are the busy times. The Atlantic here is cold all year.

What to do

Walk the beach, which is long and mostly empty, and swim if you are brave. Guided sea kayak trips leave from the Crayfish Wharf each morning (minimum age nine) and regularly meet dolphins and seals. Cape Columbine Nature Reserve begins 5 km west of the village: 263 hectares of granite boulders and rocky shore with picnic and braai spots, hiking trails and the Tietiesbaai campsite, where you camp among the rocks with no electricity. The Cape Columbine lighthouse was built in 1936 on Castle Rock and is the last manually controlled lighthouse in South Africa; climb its 97 steps for the view, and watch the beam, which flashes every 15 seconds and reaches about 50 km out to sea. Longer trails run 17 km from Tietiesbaai to Swartriet and 30 km from Paternoster to Stompneus Bay.

Good to know

Building restrictions keep the village white, low and thatched, so do not expect a supermarket or a chain of anything. The famous restaurant Wolfgat takes bookings far ahead, and other kitchens fill on weekends, so reserve dinner before you arrive. Informal sellers will offer you crayfish at the roadside; seasons and permits apply, so eat it in a restaurant unless you know the rules. Drive slowly on the few streets, which double as pavements. The Crayfish and Seafood Festival takes place in spring, with dates announced close to the time.

Last updated 6 October 2026. Sources: Wikipedia, Wikivoyage, South African Tourism, Travelstart, Faraway Worlds.